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Topics involving building a STEN
Weaponeer Forums : STEN MKII, MKIII, and MKV

Posted in STEN MKII, MKIII, and MKV
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  weaponeer

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Posted: November 06 2004 at 11:36am | IP Logged Quote weaponeer

This section is for discussions involving the building of legal Semi-Auto weapons, and different possible techniques.

Got an idea or question?

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  BigMike

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Posted: December 03 2004 at 11:26pm | IP Logged Quote BigMike

Guys, I have some questions and favors for you with a Mk3 kit and/or have made one of these things.

 What is the measurement between the back of the receiver ring and the lip of the sear of the Mk3?

For you guys who have built one of these SAS3 kits. The bolt is guided by the internal rods so it doesn't seem as if it'll rotate so why machine the safety slot in the receiver?

  What width did you machine (or grind or Dremil) your cocking knob slot? I measured my cocking knob where it would ride in the slot and it came to an almost exact .50.

 

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  Bzrkr21

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Posted: December 04 2004 at 12:43pm | IP Logged Quote Bzrkr21

I just finished machining my receiver yesterday at work. The cocking slot is 3/8" wide not  1/2". You need to cut the cocking knob down to about 1.4" long and the .365 dia on the knob rides in the slot. The internal guide rods will turn with the bolt so the safety slot will work on the SAS3. The cocking slot is what keeps the bolt oriented correctly not the guide rods. I used the template to cut out the sear slot and it was 3.875" aprox. from the ring but that was to long it ended up being 3.812" aprox. in order for the sear to move up and down easily and the tube to be even with the ring. I also had to make the slot for the sear trip arm longer by about .125" so it could move up and down freely too. I would suggest that you make sure the template is cut out square and straight and also make sure you lay a straight line out on your tube to line it up on.  I used tape to start with to make sure it came out right and then used the spray on glue a little at a time to stick it on the tube.
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  smoke

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Posted: December 16 2004 at 6:30am | IP Logged Quote smoke

D65

     I have the exact same problem..

my rear trunion is almost touching the Mag..Mag is lined up straight with the tube.. 

When the bolt trys to strip a round... the round goes in at a 45 and jams at that angle ..Looking at the Round as it is stripped... The cartridge never gets popped up to line up with the chamber.. (Stays at Bottom of Bolt face angled at a 45* approx) I Have tryed to taper the ramp more but this did not help ..Tryed to open the Mag lips a little.. No help either..... If I manually Slowly Strip the round and hold the pressure back the round will pop up on the bolt and feed..

I am no gunsmith so any pointers would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks

smoke

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  d65

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Posted: January 15 2005 at 7:13pm | IP Logged Quote d65

smoke,

May need to ramp the trunnion a little. Also, check to make sure the firing pin is not sticking and not allowing the shell to seat correctly. I have been tinkering with this darned thing for a couple of months. Finally, went to the hardware store and bought some springs. I replaced the firing pin spring. Now have to get it to the range.

Good luck,

d65

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  Guests

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Posted: January 16 2005 at 6:11am | IP Logged Quote Guests

What about building a semi-sten using a conventional hammer and disconnector? I have been working on this and have the trigger group built and functional. It will use a original Sten spring and the new bolt will only be 1-1/4" longer than the original.

I am thinking about using the original diameter tube, but preventing the introduction of the original FA bolt by permantly installing a solid rail in the trigger housing that will stick up into the receiver and thus stop the FA bolt from going in. (sort of like having the thicker side plate on a 1919)

 

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  tracernum1

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Posted: February 09 2005 at 9:24am | IP Logged Quote tracernum1

I was wondering if even having a semi sten would even be worth the effort. I have fired the MK5 sten in full auto and rapid. The full auto beats the rapid fire hands down. Man is it SWEET!! Anyway, the only problems I have seen as far as feeding goes is that the recoil spring needs to be taken out every once in a while and stretched a bit then replaced and no problems after that. (the round wouldn't fully feed into the chamber).

And before everyone goes crazy and starts flamming me as to it being a "illegal"  it is  a "legal" class III firearm, and sadly I don't own it. it was being fired on the range along with a full auto MG42. (which was wicked to watch firing as well) those GIs rushing one of those had to have some balls.

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  Guests

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Posted: February 17 2005 at 3:57pm | IP Logged Quote Guests

You can get the reduced ID tubes that are milled for the end cap at http://www.prexis.com/sten/33.htm 

Not as fancy as the one on gunbroker......but a lot cheaper.

With your Weaponeer discount... $36 + shipping.

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  stromberg

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Posted: February 19 2005 at 3:33pm | IP Logged Quote stromberg

 I am in the process of buillding a Sten from  a SAS111 kit.

 Question : If  I do not install the shoulder stock as supplied in the parts kit , and install a pistol grip, must I install the barrel extension tube ?  Or am I now building a "hand gun" 

 


 

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  bbrown

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Posted: February 20 2005 at 4:46am | IP Logged Quote bbrown

Before doing any welding on the SAS3 build I thought it'd be a good idea
to do some function testing. I used plastic zip ties to hold the receiver
tube to the trigger assembly, and some nails in the holes for the rear
trunnion rivets to serve as extra insurance, even though the cocking
handle would prevent the bolt from flying out the front of the tube.

Anyway, with the shorter spring installed behind the hammer it wasn't
overly difficult to cock the bolt and check that the trigger trips the sear
and lets the hammer fall. That work's fairly well, even though the trigger
pull is a little hard. A little hard to cock the bolt, but I could live with it if
I had to.

But, with the longer spring installed it became nearly impossible to pull
the bolt back far enough to get the hammer to catch on the sear. Even
with the buttstock propped against the floor, I couldn't get the bolt back
far enough for the hammer to catch.

Yes, the springs and hammer are installed as shown in the picture in the
instructions.

Surely this isn't normal. The Sten's original operating instructions were to
use the left hand to cock the bolt while holding the gun with the right,
sort lf like a cross draw. That would be nearly impossible with the setup I
have with this SAS3.

Am I missing some installation instructions? Do I need some different
springs? Suggestions?

Thanks,

Bryan

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  chapdude1

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Posted: February 20 2005 at 11:52am | IP Logged Quote chapdude1

I found that all the springs supplied with the SAS !!! worthless.  I used bolt return springs from a German G-43 rifle.  They come with a short one and a long one.  I used a long one for the striker.  A long one and a short one for the bolt return.  It is a little tight to rack the bolt.  The tightness is in the striker.  When I lighted up this spring I had very light primer hits and misfires.  I replaced the firing pin return spring with a piece of spring from a .22 tubuler mag.  I have had this weapon out firing cech blanks at a reenactment.  These blanks are very blunt nosed.  It performs very well.
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  d65

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Posted: February 20 2005 at 4:47pm | IP Logged Quote d65

Another range report on the sten. Took it out after someone somewhere suggested using Wolf 9mm or other military ammo instead of the handloads I was using. It now cycles about 10-15 rounds semiauto then the springs bind up. Anyone know of a better set of springs to use and where I could get them?

TIA

 

d65

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  chapdude1

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Posted: February 21 2005 at 8:58am | IP Logged Quote chapdude1

If you would like to try G-43 springs contact Brian at gewehr43@adelphis.net

He sells 2 sets for $20.00 shipped.  This will give you 4 bolt return springs and 2 gas piston springs.  you put the longer bolt return spring on the striker.  A longer and the shorter spring on the bolt.   I do use the smaller diameter gas piston springs altho they may be useful as they are about the same size as the SAS III springs but much lighter.

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  guns1977

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Posted: April 07 2005 at 6:53am | IP Logged Quote guns1977

Anyone have a SAS3 up and running? I'm thinking of buying a SAS3 kit (hint anyone got one for sale). I was wondering how they perform? Anyone??
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  d65

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Posted: April 07 2005 at 9:09am | IP Logged Quote d65

I have one that has been up and running more or less for a few months. There are some tweaking that definetly needs to be done. Not as easy as an AK build. Main problem after getting the firing pin hole reamed slightly is a spring issue. The springs issued with the kit don't work well. I have a couple of sets of springs on order and will try these. "Musibike", Ralph, on Yahoo groups/Stens is building a semi auto MKV using a SAS3 kit. The folks on the stens board are very informative. Hope this helps.

d65

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  guns1977

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Posted: April 07 2005 at 10:07am | IP Logged Quote guns1977

d65 wrote:

I have one that has been up and running more or less for a few months. There are some tweaking that definetly needs to be done. Not as easy as an AK build. Main problem after getting the firing pin hole reamed slightly is a spring issue. The springs issued with the kit don't work well. I have a couple of sets of springs on order and will try these. "Musibike", Ralph, on Yahoo groups/Stens is building a semi auto MKV using a SAS3 kit. The folks on the stens board are very informative. Hope this helps.

d65

Thanks for the info. This makes me want to build it more. I guess the tweaking is the fun part. Doing the one little thing that makes a world of difference and makes it function flawlessly

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  d65

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Posted: April 17 2005 at 7:20pm | IP Logged Quote d65

Finally got the sten up and running smooth. Used some Century Springs Cooperation. If you need the item number let me know.

 

d65

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  mjb68

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Posted: May 31 2005 at 5:45pm | IP Logged Quote mjb68

D65, please email me with the part number and whatever other info I need to get good springs for my SAS3.   After several months of waiting, Vic at Semiautostens kindly sent me some of the new replacement springs.  Unfortunately, I had the same problem as you with both the old and new springs... fires a few shots fine, then the hammer spring in kaput.  It gets compressed and deformed.  Once that happens, I get light primer strikes and 3 out of 4 times it won't fire.  HELP, I NEED GOOD SPRINGS or else this is a several hundred dollar paperweight.  Thanks.
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  BigMike

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Posted: May 31 2005 at 6:00pm | IP Logged Quote BigMike

I used clipped down FAL recoil springs I had in my parts box. I think it was an inner spring but it could have been the outer. Common sense tells me that the reason the springs get all jammed up is because there is no bolt stop, at least on my kit, and it was the springs that stopped the bolt at full recoil with the springs at full compression. I made a mechanical stop so now don't have that particular problem.
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  mjb68

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Posted: June 02 2005 at 4:29pm | IP Logged Quote mjb68

Where did you put the stop, and how did you do it.  That sounds like a great idea.
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